Practical preparation for visiting China: useful apps, visas, payments, transport and travel essentials. We write from the road and from Chengdu, paying attention to the rooms, tables, streets and conversations that rarely appear on a first-time itinerary.
If a place stays with you, it is usually because someone opened a door: a guide, a shopkeeper, a cook, or a quiet hour that was not scheduled too tightly. That is the kind of travel we try to keep room for.
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