Resist packing in too many cities. Decide your travel rhythm first, then choose the places you truly want to understand. We write from the road and from Chengdu, paying attention to the rooms, tables, streets and conversations that rarely appear on a first-time itinerary.
If a place stays with you, it is usually because someone opened a door: a guide, a shopkeeper, a cook, or a quiet hour that was not scheduled too tightly. That is the kind of travel we try to keep room for.
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